A house that is not airtight can raise your heating bill by up to 15% a year, and can cause premature deterioration of the house caused by humidity. Doors, windows and any cracks should be properly sealed. Caulking and weather stripping are low-cost remedies to such problems.
If you take the time to detect and list places where outside air infiltrates your house, it will help you effectively solve the problem.
Here are two methods for detecting air leaks.
| Methods | Description |
|---|---|
| Flicker test | This simple method consists of slowly moving a lit candle or a thin piece of tissue paper along the inside walls at the strategic points mentioned below. The flickering flame or smoke, or the trembling sheet of paper, indicates an air leak. Turning on all exhaust fans (kitchen range hood, dryer, central vacuum cleaner, bathroom exhaust fan) will help locate the leaks more quickly and accurately. |
| Blower door test | This is a more sophisticated method. A blower door device (fan) is used to create artificial depressurization inside the house so as to simulate high wind conditions. The air penetrates through holes and cracks in the house, which makes it possible to identify the specific points of air infiltration. |
The energy evaluation of Renoclimat program includes a blower door test that pinpoints and measures air entering the house from the outside. The test also indicates any leaks to the outside, i.e. warm and humid air leaking out of the house.
List of strategic points to inspect:
Do you know where the air leaks are in your home? In a house that is not airtight, they are numerous and well hidden. By participating in the Rénoclimat program, an advisor will help you detect them during the visit
Air tends to leak through the following weak points in the envelope of your house:
Air that is leaking to the outside can cause condensation problems and damage the insulation and wood framing of the house. Since air leaks tend to rise upward, start by caulking and sealing the top of the house and rooms with the highest moisture content such as the bathroom.
For best results, the joint to be sealed must be clean. Remove any paint, dust and old putty using a putty knife or screwdriver.
A cracked or damaged joint between the concrete foundation walls and the wood framing is often the cause of direct infiltrations which increase heating bills and reduce the comfort of your house. During construction, it is relatively easy and inexpensive to place a compressible sheet under the foundation sill to prevent cold air from seeping in underneath the ground level floor.
It is possible to correct this defect in an existing house, but it calls for careful attention. Start indoors by sealing each joint with an acoustic sealant. If you are doing major repairs to the exterior cladding of the house, it is recommended to seal the cracks between the concrete and the wood with the same type of sealing product before installing the new siding.
Once your house is airtight, it’s time to insulate the top part of the concrete wall and the edge beam to prevent any direct contact between cold air and the wood framing. A wide range of different materials provides satisfactory results. Mineral wool batt insulation is the easiest to apply. Cut the insulation to the exact size required and place the pieces into position loosely, without packing them too tightly. Cover the insulation with a polyethylene vapour barrier and seal the joints of the membrane with the appropriate adhesive tape. You can also use polyurethane foam, but it must be coated with fire- retardant material.
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